Table Saw Fence Project

After pricing aftermarket rip fences and having more time than money I decided that I would attempt to build one.

Space is at a premium so I didn't want to make the table too large, yet I still wanted it to be fairly versatile. After removing the stock wings on my Craftsman contractors saw I decided to just add an extension on the right hand side and incorporate a router insert that I had already built.

The table ended up being just under 36" wide, long enough to rip a 16" wide panel using the fence, however the mounting holes in the rectangular tube are spaced so it can be moved over on the angle iron support for wider cuts. In the future if I wish I can remove the rectangular tube from the rail and replace it with a longer one thereby gaining more capacity.

Buying all new steel, heavier than some manufactured brands, plus hardware I spent about $100.00.

The Rails and Table Extension

I bolted a 1 3/4" X 1 3/4" length of angle to the side of the table, situated 3/8" below the top of the table. This is the support for the third miter gauge slot.

Then I bolted a 1 3/4" X 1 3/4" length across the back of the table, situated just below the miter slots. To this bolted a short length of 3/4' X 3/4" angle iron to the inside of it to support the router table. I determined the position by clamping a length of angle iron across the top of the table and placing the pre-made router table panel between it and the support, clamping it in position and drilling 1/4" holes for bolts.

I drilled 5/16" holes to mount the rail to the front of the table and 1/4" holes to fasten a length of 3/4" X 3/4" angle to support the router table, positioning as I did the back. Both the 5/16" and the 1/4" holes have to be countersunk and flat head bolts are used for mounting.

I cut a rabbet in the side of the router table just over an inch wide and left 3/8" on the top.

With the miter gauge in the slot and the edge of the router table against the bar I placed a long clamp across the width of the table. I drilled a 1/4" hole in the front of the table through the angle iron.

I put a temporary bolt in the hole and moved the miter gauge to the back, clamped the back of the table and drilled a hole at the back and in the center. I then drilled holes toward the outside through the 3/4" angle iron.

The outside edge of the table was fairly narrow so I also drilled holes to bolt a length of 3/4" angle along that edge to support it.

I then removed the temporary bolt and countersunk all the holes for flat head bolts.

The T-Square

I cut the 2' X2" tubing to length, drilled and tapped a hole for an 8-32 screw to fasten the glider 2" from the rear end. I then drilled and tapped three 1/4" holes through the side of the tube, one at each end and one in the center, making sure it was not in line with the blade, this will be used to fasten a sacrificial wood fence.

I then welded the three parts of the t-square together and installed the nylon glides.

The Lock

The cam is made from a 1" diameter piece of round stock with a 1/4" thick flat bar wrapped around it to increase the diameter and also serve as a handle.

Assembly Notes

  • When drilling and tapping I like to drill a hole through both pieces with the proper sized bit for threading, then enlarge the hole to accept the bolt in the other piece.


Frame For Illustration Only

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